Culinary Diplomacy : The Soft Power of Portuguese Food

Filipa Marinho Mesquita - 07 April 2026

Portuguese diplomatic dinners are a tool of soft power, it’s more than just ceremonial occasions, it’s showing the country’s culture through its national cuisine to influence international relations. There were 457 diplomatic dinners recorded between 1910 and 2023, most of them take place in National Palaces, such as the Ajuda National Palace and the Queluz National Palace. Mostly hosted by the President of the Republic and the Prime Minister, which these meals are managed by the State Protocol.

 

However, this was not immediately evident for Portugal, as French cuisine largely dominated elite dining practices, while Portugal struggled to assert its own culinary identity. So, a question arises: How can we explain the transformation of Portuguese cuisine, once marginalised, into a tool of diplomacy?

 

This article argues that diplomatic meals progressively became spaces of symbolic negotiation and representation, where gastronomy is mobilised to enhance national prestige. Through the careful selection of emblematic products, such as Porto wine, which has become a flagship export promoted to foreign leaders; these events contribute to constructing a coherent national image abroad. The repetition of similar menus over time reinforces this strategy, while events organised in Portuguese embassies worldwide, such as the Portuguese Gastronomic Exhibition held at the Embassy in Canberra, further support the international promotion of the country.

 

Nevertheless, this form of culinary diplomacy remains largely informal and gradual. Rather than being the result of a clearly defined public policy, it reflects an implicit use of gastronomy as a tool of soft power in Portugal.

 

Gastrodiplomacy and Nation-Building under the Salazar regime

 

During the 19th century and into the early 20th, French cuisine dominated, to such an extent that even the Portuguese elite ate primarily French food, whilst Portuguese cuisine was viewed as “inferior” (as it was associated with the common people). A first historical phase (1910–1926), marked by the proclamation of the First Portuguese Republic, recorded only two diplomatic meals, reflecting a context of political and financial instability.

 

The second historical period was the advent of the Estado Novo, a dictatorial regime (1933–1974), under the dictatorial leadership of António Salazar, which the situation changed. A marked shift towards the promotion of Portuguese cuisine can be observed as the regime sought to build international alliances despite internal fragility.

 

Gastronomy was used as a tool to highlight traditions and regions. Thus, the state selected certain dishes, transforming local practices into national symbols becoming a deliberate social and political construct. It instrumentalised cuisine through tourism and cultural policies to promote an image of authenticity for propaganda purposes.

 

At the same time of great pressure for the regime, marked by the colonial war, internal dissent, and international criticism. Therefore, the regime used these dinners as a form of soft persuasion, aimed at legitimising its policies. At times, they avoided overemphasizing their national identity, adopting instead a neutral stance, such as serving a French meal to Indonesian President Sukarno, who held an anti-colonial ideology. Conversely, with allies like the Emperor of Ethiopia, they would use Portuguese cuisine while simultaneously highlighting their imperial past during these meals. Thus, diplomatic cuisine is an element that is adapted to the political context. Simultaneously, the emergence of gastronationalism reinforced this dynamic. This concept encompasses regional cuisines, each contributing to the construction of a unified national identity. For example, we’ll no longer simply have a pineapple, but we’ll start spelling it “Ananas dos Açores” (The Azores Pineapple). This creates a direct link between the food and the territory, positioning Portugal as rich and authentic. The menu will serve to tell the story of Portugal, showcasing regional diversity and taking the diner on a journey to a specific place, like being transported aboard the “Santa Maria” liner. 

 

Under this regime, a clear and recognised national gastronomy was established; once consolidated, it enabled the international projection of Portuguese identity through food, laying the foundations for culinary diplomacy. Thus, cuisine was not merely used by the regime but became a central element in strengthening its international image.

 

Between Tradition and Strategy, the Diplomatic Culinary Practices

 

In the context of culinary diplomacy, menus are strategic and carefully selected, as they serve to convey a country’s culture and communicate political messages. This is particularly evident in the use of the Porto wine and other traditional dishes.

 

Therefore, we see wines from various regions, particularly Porto wine, which is widely used at banquets and is one of the key elements of Portuguese gastronomic diplomacy. It remains a staple at diplomatic gatherings; it is often served as an aperitif or at the end of a meal, accompanied by items such as cheese. This wine accompanies every meal, and it is almost always Portuguese.

 

Gastronomy is becoming strategically important for the state. An interesting example is the lunch organized in Dili in 2022 during the celebration of East Timor’s independence (a former Portuguese colony). The menu, being typically Portuguese, consisted of emblematic dishes such as the main course “Bacalhau à Brás” and the dessert “Toucinho do Céu,” which was prepared in Lisbon but transported by military aircraft to the event. This reflects a deliberative effort, as they could have cooked on-site, but instead chose to maintain Portuguese authenticity, thus showcasing Portugal. By highlighting national dishes in a strategic context, Portugal reaffirms its historical connection with Timor through cuisine. The menus are carefully considered and selected for the guests, always with the agreement of the Head of State and the Prime Minister. Due to budgetary constraints, they remain simple yet elegant, sometimes reducing to a single dish, becoming more modest, but still accompanied by Porto wine, which remains a high-quality product. They adapt to certain dietary restrictions; for example, with Queen Sofia, who is vegetarian, they adjust the dishes so that everyone can enjoy a pleasant meal. Heavier dishes are avoided, such as “cozidos” or even “feijoadas”.  These meals aim to create a comfortable atmosphere, and details are carefully considered, such as the no provision of alcohol to Muslim dignitaries; the menus are then adjusted accordingly. But they also seek to assert national identity, so certain elements are considered difficult to compromise on, especially regarding wine. It is for this reason that a state visit was once cancelled due to Portugal’s insistence on serving wine. This illustrates that diplomatic cuisine is not merely about accommodating the preferences of others, but also about affirming national identity.

 

In conclusion , Portuguese cuisine has progressively become a powerful tool of soft power from a position of marginalisation, particularly since 1933, helping to assert and represent the country’s national identity. These diplomatic meals have served tactical and geopolitical purposes, enabling alliances to be renewed and strengthened, and creating a climate conducive to exchanges. Emblematic products such as Porto wine help to reinforce this strategy. Although this is not an official policy of culinary diplomacy, Portugal uses its cuisine as an effective lever of soft power, also reinforcing its international alliances.

 

 

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